Competitive Bidding in Bridge: When Both Sides Fight for the Contract

Some of the most exciting moments in bridge happen when both sides want the contract. Your partner opens 1♠, you’re about to respond, and suddenly your right-hand opponent jumps in with 2♥. Now what?

Welcome to competitive bidding—where both partnerships are actively involved in the auction. This is where bridge gets messy, fun, and occasionally terrifying. Unlike constructive auctions where your side has a calm conversation about game and slam, competitive auctions are more like a poker game mixed with a math problem.

Let’s explore how to thrive when the opponents refuse to stay quiet.

What Exactly Is Competitive Bidding?

Competitive bidding occurs when both partnerships enter the auction, each trying to either buy the contract at a reasonable level or push the opponents too high. The moment your side opens and their side overcalls, you’re in a competitive auction.

Here’s a simple example:

Both sides are bidding their suits, fighting for the partscore or trying to push the opponents into a bad contract. This is the essence of competitive bidding—neither side is letting the other play peacefully at a low level.

Competitive auctions are fundamentally different from constructive auctions because:

Information is limited: You can’t slowly explore for the perfect contract when the opponents keep interrupting
The stakes change: Sometimes making your contract doesn’t matter if the opponents could make theirs
Tactics matter: Pushing opponents one level higher or sacrificing against their game requires judgment
Mistakes are costly: Bidding one too many or defending when you should compete costs IMPs and matchpoints

The key skill in competitive bidding isn’t finding the perfect contract—it’s finding a contract that’s better than what the opponents can make.

The Three Goals in Competitive Auctions

When you’re in a competitive auction, you have three possible objectives. Understanding which one applies to your current situation is crucial.

1. Buy a Partscore

Most competitive auctions are battles for partscore. Neither side has game values, but both sides have a decent trump fit. Your goal is simple: play the hand at a reasonable level in your best suit.

At matchpoints, winning the partscore battle is huge. Making 2♥ for +110 when the opponents could make 2♠ for +110 is the difference between a top and a bottom board. Even at IMPs, making a partscore when the opponents could make one of their own is worth the risk.

2. Push Them One Higher

Sometimes you know your side probably can’t make anything, but you suspect the opponents are about to stop in a makeable partscore. A well-timed raise or competitive bid can push them one level higher—where they might go down.

This is especially effective at favorable vulnerability. If you’re vulnerable and they’re not, they might stretch to compete over your bid, then find themselves in a contract that fails.

3. Sacrifice Against Their Game

When the opponents have found a game that you’re confident will make, sometimes your best move is to bid one more and take a small penalty instead of letting them score their game. This is the art of the sacrifice.

At favorable vulnerability (you’re not vulnerable, they are), a 3-level sacrifice going down two is only -300, while their vulnerable game is worth -620 or more. That’s a great trade. At unfavorable vulnerability, sacrifices are much riskier.

Bidding to the Level of the Fit: The Law of Total Tricks

The most important tool in competitive bidding is the Law of Total Tricks, which states:

The total number of tricks available to both sides roughly equals the total number of trumps both sides hold.

Here’s what this means in practice: If your side has an 8-card spade fit and the opponents have a 9-card heart fit, the Law predicts 17 total tricks available (8+9=17). If you can make 8 tricks in spades, they can probably make 9 tricks in hearts, and vice versa.

This gives us a simple guideline:

8-card fit: Compete to the 2-level
9-card fit: Compete to the 3-level
10-card fit: Compete to the 4-level

If both sides have a 9-card fit (18 total trumps), the Law suggests 18 total tricks. If you can make 9 tricks in your suit, they can make 9 in theirs—so bidding 3♥ over their 3♦ is roughly break-even. You might go down one, but if you pass, they make their contract.

Let’s see this in action:

You hold: ♠K9742 ♥83 ♦A95 ♣J62

Partner opens 1♠, RHO overcalls 2♥, and you bid 2♠. LHO raises to 3♥, and it comes back to you. Should you bid 3♠?

Count your trumps: You have 5 spades, partner likely has 5+ for the opening bid, so you have at least a 10-card fit. The opponents are bidding at the 3-level, suggesting they have a 9-card heart fit. Total trumps: at least 19, possibly 20.

According to the Law, bid 3♠. You have a 10-card fit, so competing to the 3-level is statistically sound. You might go down one, but if they can make 3♥, you’re getting a good result by pushing them to guess at the 4-level or by buying the contract yourself.

When to Compete vs. When to Sell Out

The toughest decisions in competitive bidding are the close ones: should you bid one more, or should you defend?

Reasons to Compete

You have extra trumps: If partner shows a minimum but you have 4-card support (giving you a 9 or 10-card fit), bid again. The Law of Total Tricks protects you.

You have a distributional hand: A 5-4-3-1 shape plays much better than a 4-3-3-3 shape at the same point count. Extra distribution means bid.

You’re not vulnerable vs. vulnerable: The risk-reward ratio favors competing. Going down one not vulnerable costs -50 or -100, while their game is worth -620 or more.

They’ve reached their limit: If the opponents struggled to the 3-level, they probably don’t have much to spare. Pushing them to the 4-level might work.

Reasons to Sell Out

You have balanced distribution: Flat hands with no extra trumps play poorly. A 4-3-3-3 hand opposite partner’s 5-card suit usually means you don’t have a 9-card fit.

You have defensive values: Hands with ♠QJ10 in their suit or honors in the side suits suggest defending might be better than bidding again.

Vulnerability is wrong: If you’re vulnerable and they’re not, going down even one costs -200, which might be worse than letting them make a partscore.

Partner passed their last bid: If partner had extras or more shape, they would have bid. When partner passes, respect their decision unless you have clear extra values.

Example Decision

You hold: ♠A8 ♥KJ1042 ♦Q83 ♣742

The auction goes:

Partner | RHO | You | LHO 1♥ | 2♦ | 2♥ | 3♦ Pass | Pass | ?

Should you bid 3♥?

Count your assets: You have 5 hearts, so likely a 9-card fit. But you have a balanced hand with poor clubs and queens in their suit. Partner passed 3♦, suggesting a minimum opening. The vulnerability is equal.

Pass and defend. You have defensive values, balanced distribution, and partner already declined to compete. This is a classic “sell out” hand.

Doubles in Competitive Auctions

The double has many meanings in competitive bidding, and understanding which one applies is critical.

Takeout Double

Early in the auction, a double is usually for takeout, asking partner to bid their best suit:

Partner | RHO | You 1♣ | 1♠ | Dbl

This is a takeout double showing hearts and diamonds with opening values or better. Partner is expected to bid their best suit.

Negative Double

When the opponents overcall your partner’s opening bid, your double is “negative” (also called responsive), showing values and typically both unbid suits:

LHO | Partner | RHO | You — | 1♦ | 1♠ | Dbl

This shows hearts (the other major) and some values, but not enough length or strength to bid 2♥ directly. Partner must bid their best suit.

Competitive Double (Cards)

Once both sides have bid suits, doubles tend to show values, not specific suits. These are sometimes called “card-showing” doubles:

West | North | East | South 1♥ | 2♦ | 2♥ | 3♦ Dbl

West’s double shows extra high cards and suggests defending might be better than bidding 3♥. This is cooperative—partner can pull to 3♥ with extra distribution, or pass for penalties with good diamonds.

Penalty Double

At higher levels (usually 3-level and above), doubles are increasingly for penalty, especially when the opponents sacrifice against your game:

West | North | East | South 1♠ | 2♥ | 4♠ | 5♥ Dbl

West’s double is clearly for penalty. The opponents sacrificed against 4♠, and West wants to collect a penalty rather than bid 5♠.

The key to competitive doubles: Context matters. Early in the auction, doubles are shape-showing. Later in the auction, they show values or are for penalty.

The “Push Them One Higher” Strategy

One of the most effective competitive tactics is making a bid you don’t expect to buy, purely to push the opponents one level higher where they might fail.

This works best when:

You have a good fit but limited high cards
The vulnerability favors competing (you’re not vulnerable)
The opponents haven’t shown extras
They’re at the 2-level trying to decide whether to bid 3-level

Example:

You hold: ♠KJ873 ♥4 ♦Q1062 ♣J85

LHO | Partner | RHO | You 1♥ | 1♠ | 2♥ | ?

Neither side vulnerable. You have 5-card spade support, which likely gives you a 9 or 10-card fit. Even though you have almost no high cards, bid 2♠.

Why? You’re not trying to make 2♠—you’re trying to push the opponents to 3♥, which they might not make. If they pass 2♠, you might actually make it with partner’s opening values and your good fit. If they bid 3♥, they might go down. If they double 2♠, you’ll probably go down one not vulnerable for -100, which is fine if they can make 2♥ for +110.

This is the “law of the jungle” in competitive bidding: When you have a fit, use it aggressively to create problems for the opponents.

Example Competitive Auctions Analyzed

Let’s walk through some typical competitive auctions and see how to handle them.

Example 1: Partscore Battle

You (South) hold: ♠A6 ♥KQ1083 ♦J72 ♣943

West | North | East | South — | — | 1♦ | 1♥ 2♦ | 2♥ | 3♦ | ?

Both sides vulnerable.

You have 5 hearts and partner raised to 2♥, so you likely have an 8-card fit. The opponents are competing to 3♦, suggesting they have a 9-card fit. Total trumps: about 17.

You have a balanced hand with poor clubs and only 8 HCP. Partner’s raise shows 6-9 points usually. With an 8-card fit, you should compete to the 2-level, not the 3-level. The vulnerability is equal, and you have no distributional extras.

Verdict: Pass. Defend 3♦ and hope to beat it.

Example 2: Game Push

You (South) hold: ♠Q7 ♥K109742 ♦A5 ♣J83

You’re not vulnerable, they are.

Partner overcalled 2♥ and you raised to 3♥ with 6-card support. The opponents competed to 3♠ and partner passed. Should you bid 4♥?

You likely have a 10-card heart fit (partner’s overcall shows 5+ hearts, you have 6). They’re bidding 3♠, suggesting they have 9 spades. Total trumps: 19.

According to the Law, you can compete to the 4-level with a 10-card fit. More importantly, 4♥ might actually make if partner has a decent overcall. And if it goes down one not vulnerable, that’s -50, while their 3♠ or 4♠ might score +140 or +620.

Verdict: Bid 4♥. You have the trumps, the right vulnerability, and enough playing strength.

Example 3: Sacrifice Decision

You (South) hold: ♠J108642 ♥7 ♦KJ5 ♣Q83

West | North | East | South — | — | — | 2♠ (weak) Dbl | 4♠ | 4♥ | ?

Neither side vulnerable.

You opened a weak 2♠, partner raised to 4♠, and the opponents bid 4♥. Should you sacrifice with 5♠?

Partner’s jump to 4♠ is preemptive, suggesting a good spade fit but not necessarily a strong hand. The opponents bid 4♥ confidently, suggesting they can make it.

You have 6 spades and partner likely has 4+, giving you a 10-card fit. At equal vulnerability, 5♠ going down two is -300, while their 4♥ is worth -420. That’s a 3 IMP save.

But at matchpoints, sacrificing when you’re not sure they can make game is risky. Many pairs won’t reach 4♥, so defending and beating it (or getting -420) might be average, while -300 could be a poor score.

Verdict: At IMPs, bid 5♠ (likely a good save). At matchpoints, pass (defend and hope to beat 4♥).

Common Competitive Bidding Mistakes

Even experienced players make these errors in competitive auctions:

1. Competing Without a Fit

The biggest mistake is bidding again when you don’t have the trumps to support it. If you have only 3-card support for partner’s suit, or partner hasn’t promised 5 cards, you probably don’t have an 8-card fit. Without a fit, don’t compete.

2. Ignoring Vulnerability

Vulnerability drastically changes the math. Going down one not vulnerable is -50 or -100. Going down one vulnerable is -200. Before you compete, check the vulnerability and do the math. Is the risk worth the potential gain?

3. Doubling for Penalty Too Early

Beginners love to double the opponents at the 2-level with ♠QJ10 in their suit. This is usually wrong. Low-level penalty doubles often let the opponents escape to a better contract, or they make their doubled contract for a huge score. Save your penalty doubles for 3-level and higher contracts.

4. Not Bidding with a 10-Card Fit

If you have a 10-card fit, you can compete to the 4-level according to the Law of Total Tricks. Many players chicken out and sell to 3♥ when they should bid 4♠. Trust your trumps—they protect you.

5. Competing with Defensive Hands

If you have ♠Axx ♥Kxx ♦QJxx ♣Jxx, this is a defensive hand, not an offensive hand. Flat distribution and scattered honors play better on defense than on offense. When you have this type of hand, lean toward passing and defending rather than bidding one more.

6. Forgetting Partner Passed

When partner has passed the opponents’ last bid, they’re telling you they have nothing extra. Don’t “rescue” partner from their own decision unless you have clear distributional extras. If you have a balanced minimum and partner passed, respect their judgment.

7. Sacrificing at Matchpoints Too Often

At matchpoints, sacrificing against a game that might not make is a disaster. The field might not even reach that game, so going -300 when half the field is in a partscore is a bottom. Save sacrifices for IMPs or situations where you’re certain they can make game.

The Bottom Line on Competitive Bidding

Bridge competitive bidding is part math, part judgment, and part guts. The Law of Total Tricks gives you the mathematical framework: Compete to the level of your fit. The vulnerability tells you the risk-reward ratio. Your distribution tells you whether you have offense or defense.

The key principles:

Know your fit: 8-card fit = 2-level, 9-card fit = 3-level, 10-card fit = 4-level
Check vulnerability: Not vulnerable vs. vulnerable is green light to compete
Distribution > high cards: A 5-5 hand with 8 HCP competes; a 4-3-3-3 hand with 11 HCP defends
Respect partner’s passes: If they had extras, they’d have bid
Push when you’re safe: Well-timed raises push opponents into bad contracts
Don’t save when unsure: Sacrifices should be clear, especially at matchpoints

Competitive auctions won’t always go perfectly. Sometimes you’ll bid one too many. Sometimes you’ll sell out and watch them go down. The goal isn’t perfection—it’s making the percentage play based on your trumps, vulnerability, and distribution.

Get comfortable with the mess. Competitive bidding is where matchpoints and IMPs are won and lost, and where aggressive, disciplined players gain their edge.